By detlef dammann on Tuesday, 21 April 2009
Category: Detleff Dammann

Are we there yet?

Dakhla the last town heading south in the Western Sahara that has something to offer. From there onwards it tough, the buses or any form of formal transport stops there. Then it is another +-350km to the border a few kilometers of no mans land that looks like a scene from a Mad Max Movie, and then the Mauritania's border post. Not quite the Sunday afternoon hang out spot.

From Dakhla the only form of transport is a lift (if you are prepared to wait a few days i guess) or traders vans which have space for 1 or 2 people, but seeing that we are a group of 8 those two options where not so lucrative. But there is aways somebody keen for a bit of business and two cars were organized to take us all the way to Nouakchott (Capital of Mauritania).

The roads are good except the piece of no mans land where the Mercedes Benz taxis took a few hard shots. Border crossing took 3 hour, fairly straight forward just bring Euro's, US Dollar not to popular this part of the world. Then it was another +-350Km to Nouakchott.

Half way there we and a opposing taxi pull over, change cars and of you go with a new driver in the same direction. The deal was they would help us find cheap accommodation, seeing the new driver had no interest in us that did not work out the way we had hoped. After the first camp spot was closed we where thrown out our cars at a taxi rank, with many others wanting to strike a deal with us. We left the team and luggage at a fuel station and walked back to the closed camp site which was very close by. Jumped over the wall and knocking the owners awake at 23:00. They were kind enough to open and we could pitch our tents and fall inside them.

The next day we all squeezed into a 7 seater station wagon taxi, and headed of to Rosso to cross into Senegal. Totally chaos border crossing including a ferry into Senegal. On the other side it was hard core dealing to get a good rate for US Dollar (Have to walk away about 15 times to get a better deal). The passport stamping also took about 1 hour. Then it was onto a shaky bus of to St Louis a 90km trip taking 3 hours. Another late arrival in a new place with no place to stay. Not far away was a catholic Church, one of the places we ask for a place to camp. Not only did we get a piece of ground to camp but a hall with toilets and a tap for free.

Stayed for two nights and then the journey continued to Dakar. More About Dakar next time!

Take care

Detlef

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