The west point of Africa! Been there done that and no t-shirt!
It marked the start of Willem's and myself 1400km hitch hike to Bamako.
Traveling one gets use to drug and smoking offers, some countries worse then others and some none at all. The 1st was the case with the west most point of Africa. There sitting amongst the rocks with the waves crashing in the back ground 3 young men where smoking and high on something. Trying to convince us that drugs, weed and dirty sex is way of life it was pointless trying to convince them we not interested and that we are high on life. But to walk away did not feel right. Going back to the men and telling them that I love Jesus and that is my ticket to freedom and therefore don't require another form of making life seem better because I have the best also did not seem to interest them either. Praying for them we left.
With a few local buses and a lift we managed to make our way out of Dakar to a much more peaceful place Lac Rose(Lake Rose). It took us about 5 hours to travel the 30 odd kilometers.
During the last stretch of the journey we meet a helpful man who ended up helping us to search for a place to stay. Seeing that all places where to expensive for our budget he offered that we come and pitch our tents at his home. His home turned our home for the following two nights.
The reason we traveled to Lac Rose was because its a popular stay over for the four wheel drive overlanding travelers, and we where hoping to meet people traveling to Mali to catch a ride with them. The following day we walked to the other side of the lake in search of overlanders. No such luck. Had a swim in the Atlantic, then returned to the village.
Behind the home of our host was a school where small children lived to learn the Koran.
Willem took the opportunity to share an Arabic new testament bible with one of the teachers there. Because of the language difference they decided to take us to a English speaking person. Walking across the village to find nobody at home the man then lead us to another part of the village, requesting us to wait at the door he entered and minute later called us in. There in the room sat three extreme Muslims gentlemen their attention drawn to a local wrestling sport on television. I got a fright, my heart sank this can be dangerous I thought. Whilst Willem discussed the gospel of John with them I sat and prayed. It was a peaceful meeting, they agreeing with John chapter 1. The outcome of the discussion was that even though the Koran teaches that the gospels should be a part of the teachings Islam believers should follow they don't, because the Koran is enough.
After a friendly goodbye and leaving an Arabic new testament bible in there hands it was back to our host. There after dinner Willem could share the gospel in French with our host and family. To discover that he knew allot salvation through Christ because his Grand father is a Christian but his father changed to the Islam faith and himself has the knowledge of both but not involved anywhere himself.
The following morning the long hike to Bamako Mali started. Local bus to bigger road, Merc taxi to even bigger road, local bus to Rufisque and another bus to Koalack. That bus did not make it. A problem was identified, the bus jacked up and after a bit of investigation and a hope we get there there they decided to drive on till the point of destructions. When the noise got so bad that I could hear it in the bus they stop and transferred us to another full bus. The new bus was so packed and they just loaded us over, about 4 of us still had to fit into the other bus but the people where hanging out of the door already. Then a 5 min shouting match took place and the people where driven onto the bus like cattle and we had no choice but to get on. Standing between the last row of seats and the back door our journey to Koalack continued.
Arriving in Koalack the abuse of taxi drivers started again wanting business to take us to the bus station on the other end of town. We stayed firm and did not get of the bus and insisted to only get of at the second bus stop at the other end of town. Arriving in that chaos we spotted a shop at the beginning of the bus station. Once of the bus we made our way there to find friendly people who invited us in, we could place our bags down, rest and use their toilet in the shop. Just up the road the bus for Bamako was being loaded but we decided to try and carry on hitch hiking, you may ask why. For the adventure and our team money was up. It was late afternoon we had only traveled about 270 km all day and we decided to walk to the main road out of town to catch another ride or try at least. Whilst walking I caught the glimpse of a Land Rover down a side street. Still deciding if I should say "hey look there is a landy& quot; I remembered the dream that Willem had the previous night and that he shared with me that morning. "There is the Landy you dream t of Willem" I said. We went over to have a look. Whilst looking at the Landy a pick up truck stopped before the panel beater shop where the Landy stood. A man called us over and tolled us more about the landy. When the driver of the pick up truck finished his business we ask him which direction we where heading into and he gave us a ride to Kaffrine. What a blessing. An air conditioned double cab. The average outside temperature is about 40 degree C. The men from World vision dropped us of at the Catholic Church in Kaffrine who gave us a free room to stay that night. God knows how to look after his children!
The next morning was a slow start. Another option to get to Bamako was the train. Willem was more keen on the train then I was. It takes about 3 days to get from Dakar to Bamako.
At the train station we found out that the train passed through Kaffrine early that morning, we had missed the train, they only come about one a week.
We decided to hitch hike, waiting at least two hours before resorting to public transport.
It was midday, hot and nobody was interested to pick us up. 1 hour passed and nothing. Decided to wait one more. A white transit van stopped, the man agreed to take us to Tambacunda, the only problem was that one of us had to sit in the back, with no windows it gets very hot the driver assured us. We convinced him we will survive, loaded our baggage and of we went without the knowledge that the worst stretch of road between Dakar and Bamako lay ahead of us. Once again God was faithful. We had the best suited vehicle for that bumpy road. And yes it was hot and dusty in the back but all still a blessing.
Arriving in Tambacunda we had no place to go. There are no nice and cheap campsites in all these town and villages, and the hotels are just to expensive. Our friendly driver dropped us of at the other end of town on the main road to Bamako. Here we where, starting to get dark and no place to stay. All these places are also a bit to dodgy to just camp in the street.
The local army camp looked like the best option to ask. They sent us on to what use to be a hotel. There we meet guys working for the BBC and to cut a long story short we where packed into there 4x4 and taken to their home.
We where introduced to there large family and our host left again. It was awesome to have a place to shower (bucket shower) and a warm meal. Early the next morning we where dropped of on the main road again and it wasn't 10 minutes till a massive Mercedes truck picked us up. The truck driver bought breakfast for us, and the slow journey to the Mali Border started. The driver could not drive faster than 50 kph because the truck shook to much, I think he was overloaded. We arrived at the border at noon and the driver advised that we cross the border on foot because it take a long time to get a truck through. That was a 5 km walk with backpacks in the midday sun. The border crossing was straight forward. Had some local lunch on the Mali side waiting for any vehicle to pass through, Shortly after eating a small truck passed through and the man gave us a ride to Kayes. Arriving there late afternoon with once again no place to stay the man dropped us off in town and the first sign Willem sees is of a church. We decided that if we cannot stay there we will try to hike further to Bamako which was still 600 odd km away. Thankfully that was not necessary and we could pitch our tents in the pastors yard. Spent a great evening with them and after breakfast we where next to the road again. After a km walk a gentleman gave us a lift to the last police stop on the other side of the town. Was not even 5 min when a convoy of 3 4x4 came passed. It where 3 French families heading home to Bamako from their holiday break in Dakar. There we had a ride till Bamako in a grand old Land Cruiser. Enjoyed lunch with them under a shady tree and late afternoon we where in Bamako. Reunited with the team it was an evening to share our experiences of the last 14 days.
That 1400km hitch hike was an totally awesome experience. It will be possible to travel across Africa like that.
In Bamako it was time to get our Burkina Faso Visas. We where able to camp at the Evangelical Baptist Mission while we waited.
Take care