Writing in Ethiopia wasn't easy, initially. It could be there was too much to write and think about. Reading on the other hand has been a joy, or maybe it was just the quality of the books. I finished Shantaram which I regard highly. And now, 'Into the wild' is leaving a mark. I guess if you aren't writing, you might as well read. Alchemist is next in the line-up. Some say it is a moving combination - Shantas, Into the Wild and the Alchemist- in that order.
"Sometimes we see the past so clearly, and read the legend of its parts with such acuity, that every stitch of time reveals its purpose, and a kind of message is enfolded in it." ~ Shantaram. What I'm learning is this. We aren't doing anything particularly extraordinary. You might think we're out here offering everything up. We're offering up a lot yes, some more than others, and for different reasons. Still, we're doing the most ordinary thing for people, in different countries. The 'why' is in the aftermath - the stories of people and places, the authenticity of man and his nature.
In Ethiopia, the most ordinary thing is simply being present. I'm thinking this may be the case for most of raw Africa. White people are scarce, and believe you me, in the same way one gazes upon a leopard in the wild, our presence roused a similar effect. With the same awe, we too looked upon other white people when and if we ever did see them. And gradually, not yet entirely, we are succumbing to the attention the 'white man' brings. It's not easy being this famous. "But as the climb goes on, you grow accustomed to the exposure, you get used to rubbing your shoulders with doom, you come to believe in the reliability of your hands and feet and head. You learn to trust your self control." ~ Into the Wild
In return for our presence, we too gained a lot. Our bellies were often bloated at the generosity of our hosts. Enjera, a traditional sour pancake-like bread, made a regular appearance. Tibs, a meaty mix served with fresh rolls was definitely a winner. With chillies, always with chillies. And roasted barley, 'vetkoek' donuts and samoosas as snacks with avo/papaya juice undoubtedly taking the cake. To make sure our stomachs don't stretch too unnecessarily, we are deep-squatting often, as we seek to master the 'veltie selfie' position in every environment. We have little say in the matter, and what a privilege this is.
Steadily, we are becoming products of our environment, taking on a new shape through the simple lives of those around us. In saying this, I want to emphasize that if there was ever any expectations for this year and for Africa, they're starting to become a reality. It's as quenching as it is humbling - surrendering to local ladies as they teach and then takeover my feeble efforts at hand-washing my own clothes. Or starting a fire, but not showing enough zeal or intent, so the ladies kick in once again to demonstrate how it's done.
Of course there was too, the obvious expectation of Ethiopian coffee. It's a dark roast, always. And strong, sometimes too strong. But nothing a good dose of sugar doesn't fix, or so they taught us. From streetside coffee with locals, sitting under a tree on an empty tin, to coffee ceremonies with friends from the compounds' we shared. All in all, some transcendent moments.
Ethiopia sure did bring something new to the table. Something less structured with little to be sure of at any given moment. Our heart to serve was adequately received. The classic cheap labor made it's appearance, as well as ministry opportunity within some churches and a school. Not to mention, it took us 5 days to reach a fixed point after landing in Addis Ababa. For 3 days we explored options before heading to Harar, then Dire Dawa and finally Awassa.
From highlands to lowlands, some breathtaking landscapes. Land Cruisers are everywhere. Never have I seen so many in one place as in most of Ethiopia. And what a sight it was. Even more so, seeing birds of prey - falcons and vultures - nearly as common as pigeons in London. Or herds of camels in some areas, more than what we'd seen in and around Cairo. Also, the daily migration of over 100 baboons on the hill we mounted. Then hearing the cry of the laughing hyena resonating with a silent sky, full of stars. This is Africa, raw and unprecedented. This is Africa, and we've only just begun.